In the previous chapter I proposed that in prehistory and up to the feudal conquest of Scotland, the basic social unit was the clan - a body of people who lived under an elected leader in a defined area. This was demonstrated evidence from the Hebrides and from Perthshire.
In two cases a clan was associated with a defined area known as a fearann which survives today. Ferindonald in Easter Ross was the home of Clan Munro and Ferindonald at Sleat, Skye, was the home of Clan Donald. The etymology of G. fearann ‘land, country, estate’ suggests links with the clan, beacons, and hunting: G. fear ‘to follow, as a chief; claim kindred with’, G. rainn ‘part, division’, archaic fe ‘fire’, and G. àr ‘battle, slaughter (hunting)’. Can we trace the fearann more widely in Scotland?
Only five ‘fearan’ names are listed in modern gazetteers: Ferincoskry in Sutherland, Ferintosh in the Black Isle, and Formartin or Fearann Mhartain, the district between Ythan and Don in Aberdeenshire, as well as the two Ferindonalds. But Fearn in Easter Ross was once Ferane and this gives a series of six adjoining territories stretching from Dornoch to the Black Isle. We can widen the search to include the aspirated form, G. earrann 'share, portion of land, division, province’. DRN names such as Dornoch and Durn may also be included, on the basis that the second element in Strathdearn, the valley of the Findhorn, is a generic dubh fhearann ‘tribal deer forest’, with archaic G. dubh ‘deer’. Early forms of MRN names such as Mearns also suggest that they are compounds of fhearann with archaic G. mar ‘hunt’. LRN names such as Lorne may also be compounds with an archaic beacon word like Sc. lowe ‘blaze’. BRN names are logically ancestral to FRN names, but it is difficult to distinguish them from E. burn and brown. St. Ernan and St Birnan share the same feast day, 3 December. This incidentally offers a view of St Ernan as a tribal beacon.
This approach to place-names, which reduces them to a handful of significant consonants, works extremely well when dealing with very old names. Conventional research into the Gaelic place-names in Scotland uses only two sources of information: the unreliable forms found in early written documents and the unreliable oral information given by native speakers. The names in early documents are no more reliable than the names on early Ordnance Survey maps, for the same reason: they were transcribed by English speakers with little or no knowledge of Gaelic. Even for recent researchers with an excellent knowledge of Gaelic, transcription is often difficult. When a native speaker is faced with a meaningless (and evidently archaic) name there is an understandable tendency to convert it into something intelligible. Alexander (1952) was told that Balmoral in local Gaelic was Baile Mhòireir ‘laird’s dwelling’. But 'Bal' in Balmoral is a conventional way of showing the long vowel of G. buth as in Bouchmorale 1451. It should be pronounced ‘baw’. Bal does not represent G. baile and is not pronounced ‘bal’ except by English-speakers. Baile Mhòireir is a recent invention. Here, against expectation, the modern English spelling 'Balmoral' preserves the original Gaelic better than the recent Gaelic version Baile Mhòireir. With such archaic words as fearann and earrann we may expect to find similar puns in Gaelic (and in English) invented to make sense of them.
And we do. They range from G. feàrna ‘alder’, fuar ‘cold’, fuaran ‘well’, eorn ‘barley’, éirionnach ‘castrated goat’, Eireannach ‘Irishman’, E. fern, Sc. erne or Norse örn ‘eagle’ to E. ernut ‘earth-nut’. As explanations for major place-names alders, cold, barley, and even eagles can be ignored. They are too common, too transient or too unimportant. The alder however is found very widely in the names of small watercourses and similar.
Looking mainly for FRN and ERN names, we find that the fearann was not restricted to Scotland. In Ireland it has dwindled to mean ‘field, land, farm, plough-land’ but is still found in the names of some two hundred townlands, notably in the south-west of the country. The earrann is probably represented by Lough Erne (‘the lake of a man called Éirne’), Killarney (‘church of the sloes’), Knocknahorn (‘hill of the barley’), Larne (‘the property of a prince called Lathair’), and Aran (‘ridge’).1 In Wales also Gwern and Wern is used as a generic name by a multitude of small farms. It cannot mean ‘alder grove’ as most sites are on well-drained hillsides. Gwern evidently means ‘farm’, as in Ireland and can be related to W. gwerin ‘people, populace’. FRN names even continue south of the Border into Northumberland where they are explained as the property of a man called *Earn’ or as ærn ‘house or building’, ærn ‘a place at the heaps of stones’, earn ‘eagles’, *fierne ‘ferny place’, fearn ‘fern’, ‘a man called Forni,’ and forne ‘trout’. These are all guesswork.
So of course is the interpretation proposed here but it is more probable. When the FRN and ERN names are treated as a single group, they reveal a pattern which is to some extent predicable and so to an extent reliable since we can argue from the known to the unknown. Only a few of the names listed below certainly refer to a clan territory but a name which is isolated and doubtful in one place often turns up in a neighbouring area in a more convincing context. By themselves, Fernoch (NR8688) on Loch Gilp and Fernoch Hill (NN0120) on Loch Awe are not significant but we also find Fearnach (NM9632) on Loch Etive, Fearnoch (NM8797) at Kilmichael Glassary, and Fearnoch in Knapdale (NR7074) while in Cowal we find two more Fearnochs (NR9279, NS0176) and Fearann Coille (NS1674). This suggests that the whole area from Cowal to Knapdale was once divided into fearann.
In size a fearann was comparable to a large upland parish or even a small modern county. In coastal areas the fearann was typically the land between by two firths or major rivers. In the interior it might occupy a river valley or the land around a loch up to the surrounding watersheds. The existence of such boundaries in one place allows us to predicate similar boundaries in the next place. Coastal Ferindonald in Easter Ross is now divided into the two parishes of Alness and Kiltearn, while the vast inland parish of Creich comprises Ferincoskry and Ferinbeuthlin. The Black Isle, probably once a single fearann, has been divided into eight parishes. It appears that the original fearann along the Moray Firth are represented by the counties of Nairn, Moray and Banff, now subdivided into many tiny agricultural parishes. It is clear that the fearann is a pre-arable division which combined an area of good grazing with an accessible and not unduly mountainous hinterland. These stable and clearly-defined borders suggest the limitations of prehistoric communication and control systems.
As we would expect, most of the Scottish FRN and ERN names appear on OS 1:50,000 maps, as the names of farms, hamlets or physical features significant in reference to the surrounding district. This screens out FRN names attached to smaller local features such as alder groves and springs. The fearann names occur in populated areas, not in remote deer forests or small islands. However their distribution is variable – Skye has many, Mull has few; Lothian has few, Fife has many. This may reflect a different dialect term, a different pattern of land allocation in prehistory, a different administrative history in the feudal period. The paucity of FRN names in Lothian may be due to intensive feudal exploitation leading to an early displacement of the local Gaelic elite. In Menteith, a marshy area where hunting persisted, the term Arn appears to have been in active use in the medieval period. In other places there has been a general loss of place-names following the wholesale clearance of the native population and subsequent reorganisation of the landscape.
District Names
First we look at the names of local districts and parishes.According to an old rhyme or fable, the Picts controlled seven hereditary provinces in eastern Scotland, which they called Cat, Ce, Cirech, Fib, Fidach, Fotla and Fortriu. Those who lived there took their names from their lands (fearand). Seven old provinces or kingdoms are again named in a twelfth-century source and the two lists can on the whole be matched very closely. There is no way of distinguishing between Ce or Fidaid but for the moment we will assume that Ce was Moray and Ross and Fidach was Mar and Buchan.2
| Pictish Provinces | Kingdoms of Alba | Later political units |
|---|---|---|
| Cat | Cathanesia | Caithness and S.E. Sutherland. |
| Ce (or Fidaid) | Muref and Ros | Easter Ross, Moray and Nairn. |
| Fidaid (or Ce) | Marr and Buchan | Mar, Buchan and Banff. |
| Cirech | Enegus and Moerne | Angus and Mearns. |
| Fotla | Adtheodle and Gouerin | Atholl and Gowrie. |
| Fortriu | Stradeern and Meneted | Strathearn and Menteith. |
| Fib | Fif and Fothreue | Fife and ?Kinross. |
These districts occupy the north and east of Scotland north of Forth and they are all defined by rivers or by arms of the sea. Cat is the land from the Pentland Firth to the Dornoch Firth and the river Oykel. Ce is the land from the Dornoch Firth to the Spey. Fidach is the land between Spey and Dee. Cirech is the coastal land between Dee and Tay, Fotla the upper valley of the Tay (excluding Breadalbane), Fortreiu the valleys of Earn and Teith, and Fib lies between the firths of Tay and Forth. The evidence suggests a link between these provinces and known fearann, several of which were also defined by rivers.
| Province | Fearann |
|---|---|
| Cat | Ferincoskry, Ferinbeuthlin |
| Ce | Fearn, Ferindonald, Ferintosh, Strathdearn, Findhorn |
| Fidach | Deveron, Formartin, Frendraught |
| Cirech | Mearns ‘the great portion’, Fern |
| Fotla | Goveran or Gowrie, ‘deer portion’ |
| Fortrenn | Strathearn |
| Fib | Fernie |
Several western district names may also refer to the fearann. Morvern in Argyll, like the Mearns in the east, was a ‘great portion’4 according to the natives who lived there, though the first element is probably AG. mar ‘hunt’, not G. mòr ‘big’. Lorne, a division of Argyll, is Lav-fhearan, lav being a ‘beacon’ word akin to Sc. lowe. Arran appears to be earrann. The river Ayr was Aeron in one old source. Inland, Ferincrieff in Breadalbane is probably an old name for Fortingall parish.
Parish Names in FRN etc
Ardurness or Durness, a parish in the extreme north of Sutherland.
Arndilly, or Ardintullie, or Attyldole, Strathbogie, Banff.
Auchterderran, Fife, 11c. Hurkyndorath.
Deerness, Orkney.
Dornock, Annandale.
Drainie, another name for Kinnedar parish, Moray.
Dreghorn, a parish in Kyle and Cunningham (Ayrshire) was also known as Langdregarne. The patron here was Barnitus.
Dron, a parish in the south-east of Perthshire, bounded by Dunbarnie, Forgandenny, Arngask, and Abernethy.
Duirinish, one of the twelve parishes of Skye in 1549. The patron was St Congan.
Dundrennan, the former name of the parish of Rerwick, Dumfries & Galloway.
Durnach or Logie-Durno, Formartin.
Durness or Ardurness, a parish in Sutherland.
Farines, a deanery in Galloway.
Farnell, on the South Esk, Angus.
Farnua or Ferneway, Moray.
Fearn parish in Easter Ross, site of an abbey.
Fearn parish, Angus.
Ferenes or Ardclach, Moray, also known as Fotheray.
Glenernie on the upper Findhorn, also known as Logie Fythenach.
Inchmarnoch, a chapel in Mar, Aberdeenshire.
Inchmarnock, an island on the west side of Bute, Firth of Clyde.
Inverferane (Ross & Cromarty), associated with the parish of Bron or Lochbron or Urray (NH 5052). The river is the Orrin. This parish lies between Ferintosh on the Black Isle to the east and Killearnan to the south.
Killearn, Lennox.
Killearnan, Ross, south of Inverferane and Ferintosh, was also known as Eddyrdor ‘between two burns’? Its patron saint was Ernan.
Killearnadale, the parish church of Jura, a chapel belonging to Colonsay. Both belonged to Oronsay priory.
Kiltearn, Ross, part of Ferindonald.
Kinairney or Kinerny, Mar.
Kirkmadryne, Rhinns of Galloway.
Logie-Durno or Durnach, a parish in Formartin.
Marnock, the parish of Aberchirder, Banff.
Mearns, Renfrew.
Nanthorn, now Ednam, Roxburghshire.
Nenthorn or 13c. Nathanstirn, a parish in the extreme south of Berwickshire.
Trouternes or Trotternish, one of the twelve parishes of Skye in 1549.
The parishes of Skye
As noted above, Dean Munro set a puzzle when he said that in 1549 there were 'twalve paroche kirkes' in Skye.3 Cowan could only identify eleven: Bracadale, Duirinish, Kilmory in Waternish, Kilmuir, Miginish, Raasay, Sleat, Snizort, Strath, Trumpan and Uig.4. The difficulty may arise from duplication of the name Kilmuir/Kilmory and I have resolved it by giving Dunvegan and Waternish independent status, but other solutions no doubt exist. Uig and Trumpan appear to be medieval subdivisions of Trotternish and Waternish and have been left out. This leaves ten old parishes which very closely correspond to ten probable fearann divisions. The names Duirinish, Trotternish (Trouternes) and Waternish (Vaternes) themselves retain an ERN element and each of the parishes has one or more FRN names.
| Parish | Fearann names |
|---|---|
| Bracadale | Fearann an Cailleach |
| Duirnish | Ferinquarrie, Duirinish |
| Kilmuir (Dunvegan) | Hornival |
| Miginish | Arnaval |
| Raasay | Arnish, Fearns |
| Sleat | Ferindonald, Drumfearn |
| Snizort | Arnisort, Berniesdale |
| Strath | Dyrnoch, Udairn?, Fuirnean? |
| Trotternish | Trouternes, Lonfearn, Fuirnean? Udairn? |
| Kilmory (Waternish) | Vaternes |
GAZETTEER
The names are arranged from north to south, an arrangement which gives a vivid impression of related dialects which change slowly as we move south. The best source for names representing major land divisions is the 1:50,000 OS Landranger maps. A large number of names such as All Fearnach or Allt an Fearna 'Alder Burn', which are found only on the 1:25,000 Pathfinder, has been omitted as the named features are too small. The names are arranged in the following order.
North: Caithness & Sutherland, Ross & Cromarty, Moray
East: Aberdeenshire, Angus & Kincardine, Fife & Kinross, Lothian, Borders
West: Outer Hebrides, Inner Hebrides, Wester Ross and Argyll
South-West: Dunbartonshire & South Stirling, Renfrewshire, Ayrshire, Lanarkshire, Dumfries & Galloway
South-Centre: Perthshire, Menteith
NORTH.
Caithness & Sutherland
The old province of Caithness stretched from the Pentland Firth to the Dornoch Firth. A good distribution of FRN names survives despite contact with Norway and the loss of names due to depopulation.
Durness (NC4067), c.1542 Ardurness, at Cape Wrath in the extreme north-west.
Dornadilla or Dornaigil (NC4545), a broch in Strathmore.
Clais Fearna (NC8362), Strathy.
Feranelan (ND0358), with hut circles, a broch, and a chambered cairn, Carn Liath.
Latheron (ND1933): 1275, Laterene, 1515, Latheroun. The first element is probably ‘beacon’ or ‘light’. cf Lorne.
Cnoc Fuaran (ND1134), Dunbeath.
Cnoc na Maranaich (ND1333), with chambered cairn.
Achorn (ND1330). Brochs and a variety of cairns. Bad Fearna (ND1229) is probably an alder grove.
Culfern (NC8958) in Strathhalladale, Helmsdale.
Feranach (NC8327) in Strath na Frithe ‘the strath of the deer trap’, with chambered cairn (NC8728), hut circles, cairns, and a broch. Kilearnan in Strath Ullie (NC9218).
Meall Horn (NC8107) and Ben Horn (NC8006) in Brora may represent a fearann at Brora or Golspie, bordering on Ferincoskry at the Fleet. Cill-Mearain in Strathbrora, unlocated.5
Dornoch (NH8089) on north shore of Dornoch Firth, a.1145 Durnach.
Lòn Doirneach (NH7494), a hill-slope.
Ferincoskry in the parish of Creich extended for 30 km (18 miles) on the north side of the Dornoch Firth and the river Oykell.6 This parish, which marked the border with Ross, began four miles west of Dornoch and stretched west for forty miles, as far as Assynt. Ferancestgrayges was granted by Donald, Lord of the Isles, to Angus Mackay of Strathnaver in 1415.7 The name is G. fearann casgrach ‘the land of slaughtering (hunting)’ or G. casgraiche ‘victor, sanguinary person (hunter)’. There are many cairns, chambered structures and other signs of prehistoric activity. The centre of Creich is marked by a fort (NH6588) and fairies (‘hunters’) once met on or lived in Migdale Rock (NH6591). Tocher 28 (SSS 1978), 221 Ferincoskry was also known as Chilis or Kyles, no doubt referring to the Dornoch Firth and Loch Fleet which marked its boundaries.
Ferinbeuthlin, 1214, perhaps of the G. beutail ‘cattle, herds’. Barrow says that it was in the parish of Creich and thought it might be another name for Ferincoskry8 but it seems more likely that Ferinbeuthlin was the western half of Creich. At the western end of this route to Loch Assynt we find an isolated group of Orkney-Cromarty chambered cairns (NC2908 to NC2325). To the south is the Coigach with Clais Fearna and Dornie (below). North of Assynt are Claisfern and Durness.
Claisfern (NC1946) near Scourie, with burnt mound and chambered cairn (NC2146).
Killearnan (unlocated), a township in Sutherland.9
Ross & Cromarty
Dounie (NH5690), Easter Ross, once Donylawren ‘the dun of the fire of the fearann’ (cf Lorne). The dun was a broch.
Lubfearn (NH3870) in the interior, to the west of Ben Wyvis (NH4668).
Arnisdale (NG8410) in Glen Elg, Lochalsh (G. seilg ‘hunting’).
Dornie (NG8826) on Loch Long at Eilean Donan (seat of the Seaforth Mackenzies).
Fernfield (NG8527).
Inchnairn, 1548 Inchnarn, may be ‘alder’.
Letterfearn (NG8823).
Coigach, Wester Ross (G. cog ‘warfare’, AG. ‘hunting’). Clais Fearna (NC1016). Dornie (NB9810), in Lochalsh. This was a district of Loch Broom but never a parish.
Fearn, Easter (NH6486) and Wester (NH6287) lie on the south shore of the Dornoch Firth facing Ferindonald. Corriefearn (NH6285).
Fearn (NH8377), Farine 1349, Easter Ross. The name is said to be taken from Fearn at Edderton but such a borrowing would be a very unusual event and the use of the name Nova Farina c.1245 for the religious establishment here might equally reflect the occurrence of two similar names within the area. This district is separated from Ferindonald by the Alness river and is topographically very similar.
Ferindonald in Easter Ross was the home of Clan Munro and occupies 20 km (12 miles) on the sunny side of the Cromarty Firth, ‘the district from the Alness river to the burn of Allt na làthaid to the east of Dingwall.’10 It now corresponds to the parishes of Alness and Kiltearn11 and faced Ferintosh across the Cromarty Firth. The feudal centre was at Foulis Castle (NH5864) but the beacon site was probably at Cnoc an Teampuill (NH5863) which is not ‘temple’ but the P spelling of tiomchuill or tinchell, a group of hunters. The war cry of the clan was Caisteal Folais ‘n a theine! – ‘Fire at Castle Foulis!’ Acharn (NH5873) and Aultanfearn (NH5875) in the hinterland on river Alness, with many chambered cairns and a dun. River Averon at Alness (NH6173), àbh ‘water’ + fearann. Cnoc Mhàbairn (NH5563). Drynie (NH5360).
Ferintosh, Black Isle, is ‘the fire land of the toiseach, or leader’, once the name of a village and barony on the south side of the river Conan and the Cromarty Firth, in the parish of Urqhuart. The name survives only as Newton of Ferintosh (NH5753) and Newlands of Ferintosh (NH5954), both on Millbuie, meall bhuidhe ‘the summit of the hunting troop’. Cairnurenan (NH5652) has several chambered cairns including Cairn Glas (NH5752). Drynie (NH5551). Dunvournie (NH5957). Farness (NH7364) was a.1272 Fernenes. Learnie (NH7560) on steep site on south coast. The Black Isle, G. Ardmeanach ‘height of the meeting’, had eight parishes but in earlier times probably had only two divisions, one to the north of Millbuie (later the parish of Urquhart) and one to the south, or may have been a single unit.
The neighbouring fearann to the west, between the river Beauly and Strathglass, is shown by Glen Orrin and by Inverferane on the river Orrin. South of Orrin was the parish of Killearnan, also known as Eddyrdor ‘between two burns’. Its patron saint was Ernan.
Carn Fearna (NH4261) in Easter Ross, a mountain of 432m in the Ben Wyvis range, is unlikely to mean ‘alder cairn’.
Moray
The sequence continues along the Moray Firth with the names Nairn, Findhorn or ‘white Earn’ (whose waters are dark) and Deveron or Duverne, ‘black Earn’. They are now attached to rivers but the use of Earn in place-names suggests that it was originally a local district name. These rivers create divisions which correspond quite closely to the later counties of Nairn, Moray and Banff. The Deveron marks the boundary of the province of Buchan.
Farnua or Ferneway, Moray.
Ferenes or Ardclach, Moray, also known as Fotheray.
Beauly to Ness: The Aird. Aultfearn (NH5041).
Ness to Nairn, along the shores of the Moray Firth. Since Strathdearn, the valley of the river Nairn, is ‘stra-hern’ ‘the strath of the Earn’ in Gaelic.12 'Nairn’ is ‘an Earn name with the article incorporated’.13 The town of Nairn was 1283 Inernarn ‘at the mouth of the Nairn’. It was once a grieveship. Allanfearn (NH7147). Cullernie (NH7347). Clach an Airm (NH6836) is perhaps for ‘Airn’ and may have been a boundary marker between this district and the following.
Nairn to Findhorn: the coastal unit was centred at Darnaway (NH9955) where the Earls of Moray had their seat. An older centre was Auldearn (NH9155), 1238 Aldheren, Allt Eireann ‘the burn of the earann’, which was earlier known as Eren or Eryn. It is surrounded by two mottes, a stone row, a cairn, and a stone circle and was replaced as a local centre c.1187 under William the Lion.14 Earnhill (NJ0160).
Upper Nairn: Inverarnie (NH6833), on river Farnach where it joins the Nairn. Achvaneran (NH6734). The name Farr (NH6832) may be a reduced form of Fearn. Strathnairn is known for its concentration of Clava cairns which may have functioned as local beacons (they have limited visibility). R. Bradley, Clava ref. Upper Strathnairn was one of the three fearann which marched at Carn nan Tri-tighearnan (NH8239), the cairn of the three lords. The others were probably Strathdearn and the upper Findhorn.
Findhorn to Lossie: Invererne (NJ0360), once at the mouth of the river, shows that the Findhorn is properly ‘the river of the Erne’. Survey of Moray 1798, 146. Cullerne (NJ0563). Earnside (NJ1062) is not on a river. Eren here was the name of a district.15 Findhorn was perhaps a name which distinguished it from other neighbouring fearann. Shian a’ Fearn (relief) (NJ0342) beside Knock of Brae Moray.
Upper Findhorn 1: Glenferness House (NH9443), on the Findhorn, home of the Earl of Leven has a Pictish symbol stone known as the Princess Stone. It may have been one of the three fearann associated with Carn nan Tri-tighearnan (NH8239), a mountain of 615 m. between the Nairn, Strathdearn, and the Findhorn. All of them are probable fearann.. Local names include Ferness (NH9644) and Dunearn (NH9341) with a fort. From Glenferness it is only a short step south over the hills to Strathspey and Castle Grant, where Shleanaferan (NH9930) is further evidence for a fearann.
Upper Findhorn 2: Glenernie (NJ0146) to the east on the river Divie was a separate parish and so perhaps a separate fearann. Culfearn (NJ0043).
Upper Findhorn 3: There may have been a small fearann in Strathdearn centred on Loch Moy, with Moy Castle and Moy Hall. Its natural connections are with lower Strathnairn and it was presumably one of the three fearann who shared the Carn nan Tri-tighearnan (NH8239). ‘cairn of the three lords’.
Upper Findhorm 4: Coignafearn (NH7017): a very remote little place with a very imposing name. Watson believed it was an earann and quotes an old saying that one fifth (a coig) of The Éireann was worth the whole of Strath Éireann W.J. Watson 1926, 230.
Lossie to Spey: The former barony of Innes. The coastal area has Bog O Fearn (NJ2757) and Fernyfield (NJ3062). In the parish of Birnie (NJ2058) on the Lossie river, 5km (3.5 miles) south of Elgin, there was a huge cairn, 100m in circumference, known as Kilforeman in which ‘fore’ represents fearann and ‘man’ is meadhon ‘to meet, gather’. Also Fulfern (NJ2153).
Upper Lossie: Aultahurn (NJ1448) on the route to upper Speyside.
Spey to Deveron (NJ6963): the river Deveron or Duffhern retains the name of a further fearann in Moray. Duff is not G. dubh ‘black’ but archaic dubh ‘deer’. It marks the boundary between Moray and Buchan. Tolachherene 1242 was here or hereabouts. The coastal region has Oran (NJ4161) and Arndilly (NJ2848), on the Spey. Durn (NJ5865), including Durn Hill (NJ5763) with its fort and Burn of Durn (NJ5661) with Arnbath (NJ5765) may represent a separate fearann.
Upper Spey: the upper valley is a distinct region, linked to Perthshire as well as to Moray. Shleanaferan (NH9930) Sliabh na fearann ‘the slope of the fearann’ is a north-facing hill near Castle Grant (NJ0430). This suggests that Grant territory on Speyside began as a fearann. This hill is not on the boundary with Ferness to the north which runs through Lochindorb. Earnfold (NJ3639) on the Fiddich, a tributary of the Spey and on the route to Upper Deveron. Ferndearn (NJ3044), in Strathspey near Craigelleachie. Allt Fhearnagan (NN8697), a small tributary of the Feshie, may be an ‘alder’ name. W.J. Watson 1926, 450. Carn Tighearn (NJ2329). Auchnafern (NJ0229). Ferntaggen (NJ2430) in Strathavon. Creag an Iaruinn (NJ1221) at Mains of Glenlochy, one of the davochs of Abernethy parish, in upper Strathavon.
Carn nam Bain-Tighearna (NH8425), between Strathdearn and Strathspey. The Ban-tighearn is now ‘lady’ but makes more sense as ‘fire lord’ with AG. ban ‘fire’.
Upper Deveron: includes Strathbogie and the Cabrach (see Aberdeenshire).
EAST.
Aberdeenshire
Major rivers also divided the districts in the east. Buchan lay between Deveron and Ythan and Formartin between Ythan and Don. This has been used as a way of organising the following names, though this does not necessarily correspond to the prehistoric arrangement. Inland, settlement was limited to the river valleys.
Deveron to Ythan: Buchan, the old Pictish province, is 60 km (40 miles) wide and may have been subdivided by the river Ugie. Rathen parish was dedicated to St Ethernan. His ‘hermitage’ was a hollow known as Eddran’s Slack on the east end of Mormond Hill (NJ9757), a beacon hill.
Ardiffery (NK0536), small estate. Arnage Castle (NJ9337), 1348, Arnynche. Arnhall , Huntly (JBJ). Arnhead (NJ7042), with a stone circle. Arnhill (ref?), 1545 Ernehill. Arnybogs (NJ8638). Auquharney (NK0238), small estate or former township. Bogfearn (NJ7758). Coulterne (NJ8944). Earnhill (NJ8545). Edindurno (JBJ). Fernieslack (relief) (NJ8159). Ferniebrae (NJ9957) on slopes of Mormond Hill. Fernking (NJ4457). Gilkhorn (NJ9245). Horndaw (WMA). Inkhorn (NJ9239). Inverthernie (NJ7344), 1504 Innerny: Erny or Therny is said to be the original name of the stream here, a tributary of the Ythan, but cf Inverythan (NJ7540) which is not at at confluence at all. Ironhill (NJ9165), pron ‘eernel’. Ironreives (NJ9221), in early spellings Arnruffis, Earnerives. Ironside (NJ8752). Marno (NJ9460). Terryorn or Terryhorn (NJ4640). Tillyfar (NJ8545). Tillyfar (NJ8638). Tillyfer (NJ8638).
Ythan to Don: Formartin, Ferann martain, is the name of this extensive district. Martin can be interpreted as ‘hunting beacon’ from *mar ‘hunt’ and G. teine ‘fire’. The centre of Formartin was Fyvie castle (NJ7639) on the river Ythan, ‘an important place from time immemorial’. William the Lion held court there in 1214.16
Arnyburn (NJ7441). Drumdurno (NJ7024), between Urie and Don, with the Maiden Stone. Fernie Brae (NJ7061). Balquhairn (NJ5618). Ferniebrae (NJ7126). Ironbrae (Tarves, WMA). Ironbrae, Udny (WMA). Kinghorn (NJ8721): the ceann or deer trap is no doubt the ‘small steep den’ there, noted by Alexander.17 Marnoch (NJ5950).
Strathbogie: this inland district to the west of Formartin and south of Deveron was also a fearann known as Frendraught (NJ6140) 1283 Fferinderahe, G. fearann doireach ‘the fire-land of the deer forest’.18 It survived as an elite centre and as the name of a pre-Reformation parish which was also known as Forgue. The second element is also found in toiseach-dereth, ‘leader of the hunt’ or ‘master of the deer-forest’, an old native official. The Crighton Stone and the Federaught Stone on the Hill of Rothmaise (NJ6933) are said to mark an encounter between the families of Frendraught and Fedderate,19 and probably mark a boundary. Federaught is not Fedderate in New Deer (NJ8949) but might be a form of the name Frendraught. Culyarney (unlocated). Glen Dornach (NJ6243).
The Garioch is an inland district bounded by Formartin, Mar and Strathbogie. Evidence for a probable fearann in Garioch is given by the two stones on the Hill of Rothmaise (NJ6933), marking a boundary with the fearann of Frendraught to the north.
Durno (NJ7123) and Logie Durno (NJ7026) with a symbol stone [moved from above]. Ferniebrae (NJ7126). Horndoyne (NJ6624). Rayne (NJ6728), G. rainn ‘part, division’. Strathorn (NJ6827). Early forms of Inverurie are Inuerurin and Inverthurin which suggest that Urie was ‘the river of the fearann’. Th is sometimes interchangeable with Wh and H and represents an uncertain initial aspirate. See Inverthernie in Buchan.
Don to Dee: Mar was divided into three portions: Braemar, Midmar, and Cromar. Strathdon and Strathdee are linked by the Blue Cairn on Morven, which is equally visible to north and south.
Arnhaugh (WMA). Bogfern (NJ5207). Craigearn (NJ7214), where stands the Lang Stane o Craigearn. Fernhill (NJ8807). Fornet (NJ7613, 7813) with standing stones. The Hirn (NJ7300): Alexander says ‘frequent’ but gives only one example. Horn Burn, a tributary of the Dee, is the county boundary at Sluie (NO6297). The Horner (NJ7415), a group of small farms. Learney (NJ6304). Moulinearn (NJ6305), in Gaelic Muileann-fheàrna. Watererne (NJ4507), for uachdar earann ‘the height of the earann’.
Upper Strathdon: Allt Fuaranach (NJ3107) is shown on an estate map as Allt Fearnach (WMA). Ernan (NJ2812), a tributary of the Don, also Glen Ernan (NJ3112) and Inverernan House (NJ3210) with cairn. Tom Hearn, a knoll on Ladylea (WMA).
Upper Deeside: Allt an Eireannaich20 is perhaps unlikely to be 'castrated male goats'?. Gleney: Ben Iutharn, Braemar.
Clais Fhearnaig (NO0693), a ravine between Glen Lui and Glen Quoich, probably a deer trap. Corrienearn (NO3994), 578 m in Glenmuick is also found as the Corn Arn. Fafernie (NO2182), a hill of 1000 m. on the boundary between Mar and Gowrie, which like all such boundaries is marked by a series of beacon hills. Inchmarnock (NO4296), 5 km below Ballater.
Angus & Kincardine
Dee to North Esk: South Deeside and The Mearns (county of Kincardine). The Mearns was Moerne, G. A’Mhaoirn, the great fearann in Strathmore (there were others). The English plural suggests subdivision into three parts by the rivers South and North Esk.
Arnbarrow Hill (NO6578) and Arnbarrow (NO6577) are within the royal deer park at Kincardine. Arnot Boo (NO9497), a coastal feature. Arntilly Craig (NO5793) at Birse, has a long cairn (NO5993) (c.1180 it was Erbentuly). Boggiefearn (NO5496), a small farm in Birse. Cairn-mon-earn (NO 7891), 378m, has a second summit Mundernal (NO7893), for monadh fhearann. Darn Bay (NO8573). Darnford (NO7692). Earnsheugh Bay (NO9498). Fernyflatt (NO8577). Ferniebrae (NO8380). Fernybank (NO5378) on North Esk. Hill of Wirren (NO5273) between North Esk and West Water. Kinghornie (NO8372), at the mouth of the Bervie Water. St Arnty’s Cell, Kinneff (NO8574). St Marny’s Well, Benholm (NO8069).
North Est to South Esk: Arnhall (NO6169) near Edzell. Balquharn (NO4862). Bettywharran (hill) (NO4467). Brechin (NO6059), an old Pictish centre, had Tuetheren’s Fair, perhaps the eireann of the tuath or ‘folk’. Farnell (NO6255), with castle and mains farm, 1219 Ferneval, was a separate parish. Fern (NO4861), probably the original centre, with Fern Den, Hilton of Fern, a standing stone (NO4960). Ironshill (NO6750) on Lunan Water. Noran Water (NO4463). St Arnold’s Seat (NO4363) with summit cairn. St Arnold’s Seat, Tannadice (NO4758) on South Esk. Arnold either ‘height of the earrann’ or ‘stream of the earrann’ is also common in English place-names.
South Esk to Firth of Tay: Arnbog (NO3146), at the west end of Strathmore. Balluderon (NO3738), with stone circle and Martin’s Stone. Bothmernock in Panbride parish, Carnoustie. J.M. Mackinlay 1914, 75. St Ethernan’s Fair at Forfar. Arniefoul (NO4044) with a cairn, Ironharrow Well (NO4143), and Ironside Hill (NO4140) in the hinterland of Glamis Castle (NO3848), home of the Earl of Strathmore and Kinghorne, as well as several Pictish carved stones.
Glens of Angus: Acharn (NO2876) and Drumwhern (NO3368) in Glen Clova.
Turin Hill (NO5153).
Fife & Kinross
North-east Fife
Fernie (NO3115), originally part of the domain of the MacDuff Earls of Fife but property of Fernie of that Ilk by the fifteenth century. The Lairds of Fernie were also Foresters of Falkland and Constables of Cupar. N. Tranter vol.2, 1963, 36-7. Kilmaron (NO3516) in north-east Fife, is equipped with castle and beacon site, signalling south. Cairnie (NO3717), similarly equipped, signals north. Collairnie (NO3019), with hill and castle. Lindifferon (NO3216). Ironside at Lindores (NO2616), was Earnside, Hyrneside, Irneside. W.M Alexander 1952 under Ironside, New Deer. Ferniehall Cottages (NO3915).
South-east Fife: Arncroach (NO5105), near Kellie Castle (NO5205), once home to the Earls of Kellie, and Kellie Law (NO5106), a beacon site with a cairn. Aithernie (NO5704) is also a fearann name, retaining the aspirate. The church steeple at Kilrenny (NO5704) (G. rainn ‘portion’) was known to fishermen as St Irnie. He was shown carrying a torch. Irniehill at Kilrenny was also significant to sailors; this is probably now Rennyhill (NO5704)
West Fife: Arngask (NO1310), c.1147 Arringrosk. Cockairnie (NT0999) at Kinross, 1178 Kincarnyne. Cockairnie (NT1685) at Aberdour. Dunearn (NT2187), a hill in the parish of Burntisland (Kinghorn), with a fort. Kilgour (NO2208), Kilgoueryn 1243 (WCM 119). Killernie (NT0392). Kinghorn (NT2787), Johnston says 'height of the beacon', gorn 'firebrand, ember'.21 Purin (NO2606) to the south of Falkland, may retain an unaspirated form of fearann. Atharnaisc was patron saint of Lathrisk (NO2708), near the old royal palace of Falkland, and of Leuchars in East Fife.
Lothian.
East Lothian: nothing found.
Midlothian: Balerno (NT1666). Dreghorn (NT2268). Wyndhorn (WCM), a river name equivalent to Findhorn.
West Lothian: Airngath, Erngath or Irongath Hill (Bo’ness). Arnlose or Arnloss (NS8771). Arnothill (Falkirk). Blawhorn Moss (NS8868). Darnrigg (NS8775). Fairniehill (NT0576).
Borders.
Arniston (NT3259), Arnothil in Liddesdale, 1541 (JBJ), Chirnside (NT8756), Darnick, Darnock or Dernock, Roxburghshire (NT5334), Earnscleugh Rig (NT5653), Fairnilee (NT4533), Fairnyside (NT9461), Farndun 1098, Berwickshire (JBJ), Ferneycastle (NT8860), Ferniehirst (NT4441), Ferniehirst Castle (NT6517), Ferny Hill (NT5436), Ferneyhill Farm (NT7336), Ferneylea Farm (NT7469), Horn Burn (NT9160), Hornshill (NT5767), Yearning Flow (NY5587).
WEST
Hebrides, Outer
Lewis: Airnistean, Cross (NB4962), at a small harbour. Arnish (NB4330), on a promontory controlling the entrance to Stornaway harbour and Arnish Moor, inland.
North Uist: Arnaval or Airneabhal (NF7825) is close to two chambered structures (NF7524, (NF7525). The second element is G. éibheall ‘flame, live coal’, as in Applecross. Scrifearnach (NF7977) on Vallay. Remains of Teampull Orain (NF7777).
Hebrides, Inner
Colonsay: Kiloran and Tobar Oran ‘Oran’s Well’ (NR3996). The island is said to be ‘sacred to St Oran’: what does this mean in real terms?
Islay: Poll an Dhoire Fhearna, a coastal feature, perhaps ‘pool of the alder grove’, but in archaic Gaelic, ‘beacon site of the tribal deer forest’, which suits the site better.
Jura: Allt an Eirean (NR4574); very small feature, probably goats. Allt an Eireannaich (NR5678) ditto. Ardfernal (NR5671) with standing stones. Cruachan an Uillt Fhearna (NM6290), probably too high for alders. Kilearnadale (the parish). Port nam Furn (NM7000).
Lismore: Kilcheran (NM8238).
Mull: Acharonach (NM4639).
Rum: Fearann Laimhrige (NM4196) ‘fearann of the landing-place’, a highly visible coastal site which faces across the Sound of Rum to Sleat in Skye.
Skye: For discussion of the parishes and fearann of Skye, see above. The probable fearann are (from the north west), 1. Duirinish, 2. Dunvegan, 3. Waternish, 4. Bernisdale or Snizort, 5. Trotternish, 6. Bracadale, 7. Drynoch or Strath, 8. Miginish, 9. Sleat and 10. Raasay.
1. Duirinish. Feriniquarrie (NG1750), a hamlet on an inconvenient but very visible site halfway up a steep hill. The name means ‘beacon site of the circuit or expedition’ from G. cuairt ‘circle, circuit, circulation, expedition, general gathering of sheep’, which suggests that it was once lit to gather local hunters for a deer drive. The Macquarries of Ulva, a small island near Mull, derive their name from the same source and this name suggests another local group of the same name. The undeveloped fearann in Skye and the neighbouring islands may show the existence of local groups who lost their autonomy when absorbed into Clan Donald.
2. Dunvegan. Dunvegan (NG2449) was the elite centre for the northern half of Skye. Horneval (NG2747) is a probable local beacon.
3. Waternish or Vaternes, an ERN name.
4. Bernisdale or Snizort. Arnisort (NG3453), between two brochs, on Loch Greshornish in Snizort. They share the element hornish or arnish. Berniesdale (NH4050) is a possible fearann name.
5. Trotternish or Trouternes, an ERN name. Lonfearn (NG5162), on east coast of Trotternish, facing Gairloch and Applecross.
6. Bracadale. Fearan nan Cailleach (NG3738) is an unadorned hill spur overlooking Bracadale or Dal na breac ‘deer dale’. The Cailleach appears to be a tribal hunting beacon rather than a protective goddess, as is generally the case in place-names. Two chambered cairns (NG3337) and three brochs (NG3438, NG3537, NG3638)
7. Drynoch or Strath. Drynoch (NG4031), a DRN name, perhaps the original name of Strath parish. Fiurnean (NG5149). Udairn (NG5142).
8. Miginish. Arnaval (NG3431), in Miginish. A beacon hill (see Arnaval, North Uist).
9. Sleat. Ferrindonald (NG6507), Armadale, Sleat, the original home of Clan Donald and the elite centre for the southern half of Skye. Drumfearn (NG6715), at the north end of the penisula of Sleat.
10. Raasay. Arnish (NB4203), a coastal site. Fearns, North and South (NG5835).
Mainland: Wester Ross and Argyll.
Plockton: Fernaig (NG8433).
Gairloch: Badfearn (NG8889), on Loch Ewe. Druim ma Fearna (NG8270). Meall Fearna (NH0161), unlikely to be ‘alder mountain’ but next to Meall Guibhas ‘pine mountain’.
Achdacherran More and Beg (NM?0085). Where?
Applecross: Na Fearnan (Dwelly), now Fearnmore (NG7260) and Fearnbeg (NG7359) are both in exposed and highly visible coastal positions facing across Loch Torridon to the mainland south of Gairloch. They would serve to communicate between hunters in the two areas and may also have marked a landing-place.
Lochalsh:
Glenmore: Leitirfearn (NH3201) on east side of Loch Oich facing Invergarry.
Glenelg: Dornie (grid ref) on Loch Duich. Arnisdale (grid ref) on Loch Hourn. Letterfearn on Loch Duich (?) (grid ref).
Morar: Arnipol or Arnabol (NM7483). Loch Hourn (NG8209), G. Shubhairne, AG. subh ‘gather’ + earann or fhearann.
Moidart: Drynie Hill (NM7171).
Ardnamurchan: Gorteneorn (NM6367) is ‘barley garden’ but Gortenfern (NM6069) cannot be ‘alder garden’. Gortoncherin (NN0538) on Loch Etive and Gortonchuirn (NR2561) and Cnoc a’ Chaorainn (NR2562) in the Rhinns of Islay may be the same name.
Sunart: Goirtein Mhoirein (unlocated), said to be a mermaid (H.C. Gillies 1906, 185). Eorna Cottage (NM7064), a very odd name.
Morvern: G. a’ Mhorairne. The natives always understood this to be a’ Mhór-earran ‘great portion’, but the first element is probably not ‘big’ but AG. mar ‘to hunt’. Acharn (NM7050) a meeting place for hunters. Fernish (NM5751) on the Sound of Mull was perhaps a navigational beacon for hunters crossing from Mull. Rudha aird Earnaich or Éirionnaich (unlocated).1 (HC Gillies 1901, 105).
Lochaber: Carn Clach na Fearna (NH4308) at south end Loch Ness; unlikely to be ‘alders’. Drumfern and Druim Fearna (NM9577) on south side of Loch Eil; ditto. Fassfern (NN0278) on the north side of Loch Eil. Sron na Fearnaig (NN0689).
Appin: Loch Creran (NN0044), was Creveren. The first element is a ‘fire’ word, as in Moncrieff.
Benderloch:
Lorne: Lathurna or Lagarne, for *Labh-fhearann ‘fire portion’, [labh lip refers to deer traps] referring to its beacons (cf Latheron, Caithness). Acharn (NN1235). Ardfern (NM8004) on Loch Craigneish. Beinn Duirinnis (NN0234) and Eilean Duirinnis (NN0035), not ‘island’. Cruach nam Fearna (NM8215). Fearnoch (NM9632). Fernoch Hill (NN0120), on the west side of Loch Awe. Iveroran and Allt Oran (NN2741). Kilmaronaig (NM9334), on Loch Etive. Muckairn (NM9733). Meall nan Tri-Tighearna (NN1442): these three lords perhaps controlled Glenetive, Glenorchy and Glenkinglas, and represented the old native MacGregors of Glenorchy and MacIntyres of Glenoe.
Craigneish: Acharonach (NM8207).
Argyll: Drimfern (NN0814) in Glen Aray. Fearnoch (NM8797). Fernoch (NR8688) on Loch Gilp, on the route to Dunadd and Kilmartin. Kirnan (NR8795)? Fearnach Bay (NM8313) with hut stances. Gleann Fearna (NM9221). Meall nan Tighearn (NN2323), a prominent hill between Glenlochy and Loch Awe.
Cowal: West: Ardmarnock House and Bay (NR9172), Fearnoch (NR9279) with standing stone, cairn and dun. Camus Fernan (NS0275). East: Fearann Coille (NS1674) with Airigh nam Fearan (NS1374), platforms (NS1678-9) and a chambered cairn (NS1680). Fearnoch (NS0176) on Loch Riddon, with hut platforms and chapel. Kilmarnock (NS1073). Dornie (NS1494) on Loch Eck. Dornoch Point (NS1484) on Loch Eck.
Knapdale: Fearnoch (NR7074). Fernoch (NR7285) with standing stone, Dun Mhurich and many platforms. Loch na h-Earrain (NR 7278).
Kintyre: Arnicle (NR7135). Dhurnie (NR6822). Loch na h-Earrainn (NR7278). Rhuna h-Aorine (NR7048). Deucheran Hill (NR7644).
SOUTH-WEST
Bute: Kerryfern (NS0561). Port Dornoch (NS0853). Inchmarnock, an island off Bute.
Dunbartonshire & South Stirlingshire: Arnburn (NS3588) at Luss, Loch Lomond. Baldernock (2 km ENE of Milngavie), a former parish and hamlet. Blairnairn (NS3088) in Glen Fruin. Fruin, c.1225 Freone. Fernicarry Farm (NS2391). Inchmurrin (NS3887) with chapel of St Mirren and castle of the Earls of Lennox. Lorn (NS3985) at the south end of Loch Lomond, a probable beacon site. Laveran, Loch Lomond. W.J. Watson 1926, 431. Drumairn (NS6777) in the Kilsyth Hills. St Mirren’s Well at Kilsyth (NS7278). Kilmaronock (NS4587), a parish. River Earnan (WCM).
Renfrewshire: Mearns (NS5454) with castle; also name of parish, Mo-erne ‘large earann. On the Earn Water (NS5453). Levern Water (NS5261), Laberane 1539. W.J. Watson 1926, 431. Berfern (NS2071). Darndaff (NS2722), with moor and cairn. St Mirren was patron of Paisley.
Lanarkshire: Arns (NS8075). Balornock (NS6167). Cleghorn (NS8946) 1230 Clegerne. Cumbernauld (NS7674). Dalmarnock (NS6162) on the Clyde. Darnfillan (NS8541). Darngavel (NS8756). Darnhunch (NS7428). Darnley (SW Glasgow). Dern Craig (NS8907). Distinkhorn Hill (NS5833). Dornal (NS6319). Earn Law (NS9311), a beacon site on the slope of Earncraig Hill (NS9701), near Daer Reservoir (NS9707) where Mesolithic remains have been found. Earnock (NS6954), part of Hamilton. Fereneze Hills (NS4859). Ferniegair (NS7354). Fernieshaw (NS8159). Marnock (NS7168). Tincorn Hill (NS5827). Totherin Hill (NS9535).
Ayrshire: the three divisions of Ayrshire are Cunninghame, north of the river Irvine, Kyle between Irvine and Doon, and Carrick, all the county south of Doon. From the Brown Carrick (NS2916) one can see Ben Lomond.
Cunninghame: Dreghorn (NS3537). Kilmarnock (NS4237). Warnockland (NS4744).
Kyle: Cloquhairnan (NS4317). Darnconner (NS5723). Darnhay (NS5229). Darntaggart (NS5117). Dornal (NS6319). Knockmurran Farm (NS4416). Polquhairn (NS4716).
Carrick: Arnsow (NS3507). Auchenairney (NS3308). Clashverains (NX3799). Dalquhairn (NX3276). Dalquharran (NS2702). Darnaconner (NX2783). Drumfairn (NS3306). Drumfairn (NX1894). Duhorn (NX1086). Fernwell Farm (NX1087). Garryhorn (NS2913). Kilranny (NX1592) with G. rainn ‘part, division’. Linfairn (NS3001). Linfern (NX3698). Parkfairn (NS3306). Pinverains (NX3398). Pinverains (NX4199).
Dumfries & Galloway: Along the Solway Firth, the southern part of this region divides naturally from east to west into eight regions separated by major rivers. Certain of them are capable of being further divided into eastern and western parts.
Esk to Annan: Dornock (NY2366), parish and village on Solway Firth.
Annan to Nith: Ironhirst (NY0572). Hardthorn (NX9477)? Arnmannoch (NX8875), taken to mean ‘monks’ portion’ but monks had an interest in saying so. As in Arnimean, ‘the meeting place’, referring to hunters. W.M. Alexander 1952, 174 makes the useful equation of main/mean in place-names with G. meadhoin ‘middle’, archaic G. ‘meeting place’. Nith to Cree was known as the Stewartry.
Nith to Urr: Arnmannoch (NX8560). Dalquhairn (NX8979. Drumfern Hill (NX8661). Irongray (NX9179) ‘the portion of the herd’, on the Cluden Water. Ironhash Hill (NX 8656). Lavern Burn (NS9007). Lochfern (NX8662). Marwhirn (NX7973). Richorn (NX8357).
Urr to Dee: Blackerne (NX7964). Chapelerne (NX7767). Drumwhirn (NX7480). Ernambrie (NX7566). Ernanity at Crossmichael (NX7366) (JBJ). Erncrogo (NX7468). Ernespie (NX7764). Ernmenzie (NX7564). Ferngrove (NX7267). Halferne (NX7566). Kirkmirran (NX7954). Knocklearn Moor (NX7479). Marnoch Hill (NX8058). The Motte of Urr (NX8164) was a notable Dark Age elite site. As at Menteith one may suspect early clerical influence behind this concentration of names, particulary given the number of ‘Kirk’ names with fictitious saints.
Dee to Fleet: Dornell Hills (NX7065, 7066). Ironmacannie (NX6675). Ironlosh (NX6779). Kilfern Hill (NX6457).
Fleet to Cree: Killern (NX5858). Craigherron (NX5367).
Cree to Luce: Balfern North (NX4351), Balfern South (NX4450) with a fort between them. Barnearnie (NX3159). Barwhirran (NX4061). Darnow or Dirnow (NX2965). Dernaglar Loch (NX2658). Dirnean Moss (NX2557). Dirneark (NX2668). Drumfern (NX3971) with cairns, stone circle and The Thieves standing stone (NX4071).Gleniron (NX1960), with a chambered cairn (NX1860). Kilhern (NX2063); the Caves of Kilhern, a chambered cairn (NX1964). Whithorn (NX4440), early forms Hwiterne, Futerne.
Beyond the Luce in the Rhins of Galloway: Culhorn (NX0858). Ferntown Hill (NX0557).
In the interior: Arnimean (NX3080) ‘the earann of the muster or meeting (of hunters)’ is between Ayrshire and Galloway. It is marked by a cairn and is close to a chambered cairn (NX3179). Arnsheen (NX2676) is a beacon site (as E. shine). Carsphairn (NX5693). Dornal (NX2976). Knockwhirn (NX5995). Marwhirn (NX7492). Penwhirn Burn (NX1170).
SOUTH-CENTRE.
Perthshire
Gowrie, Goueran or Gafran, gabh-earann ‘deer portion’, a division of Perthshire between Stormont and Tay.
Horn (NO2526) in the Carse of Gowrie.
Buchany (NN9328) in Almond was Buttendy. Dundornie (NN7632). Dronach-haugh, near Lyndoch.
Balquhidder: Lochan an Eireannaich (NN5124). Oirinn-Aenais (NN5320): 'the oratory of St Angus' – more probably the site of a gathering beacon. Meall na Frean (NN4923).
Dron: a hill in Longforgan.
Balnarn (NN7857) in Tummel.
Sligearnach, Glentilt. (Diack, ref).
Upper Strathearn:
Earn, river, loch and strath. G. Eireann. Probably the lands around Loch Earn, from which river and strath take their names, but Strathearn or Stradeern may have gone as far as Crieff.
Dundurn, a fortified rock (NN7023), at the east end of Loch Earn, probably the ‘Rath Erenn in Alba’ associated with St Fillan. St Fillan’s Well is below the rock, archaic G. faoileann ‘gathering beacon’, from faoil ‘hospitality, feast (hunt)’, found also at Faoileann (NM4022) on an exposed hillside in the Ross of Mull, at Faoileann Ghlas (NM6243) on a coastal site on the Sound of Mull facing Morvern, and at Creag nam Faoileann (NN0700), a coastal site on Loch Fyne. All were beacon sites designed to call hunters from neighbouring parts to communal deer drives.
Meall na Fearna (NN6518) in Glenartney, is too high for alders.
Fairness (NN7821).
Lorne(N side of Loch Earn). W.J. Watson 1926, 122.
Lower Strathearn:
Arns (NN9714). Arngask (NO1310), was Arringrosk c.1147. Dornock (NN8818), on river Earn below Crieff. Dron (NO1415). Ferneyfold (NN9620). Ferntower (NN8723) on Knock of Crieff with standing stones. Fornought (NN9474), appears to be a pun on Ferenach; cf Forneth (NO0945) and Barneight (NX3263) in Galloway. Glenearn (NO1016) and Millearne (NN9317) are perhaps recent names. Fernyhill Cottages (NO0932).
Cluny: Forneth (NO0945). Lornty (NO1746). The Lornty burn runs through a deer trap known as Buzzart Dykes.
Lochtayside: Acharn (NN7543), Balnearn (NN7043), Fearnan (NN7244). Fortingall parish included a property ‘of unknown extent’ known as Fearan na Craoibh or Moncrieff’s land. Ref. from Duncan Campbell. William Moncrieff sold his lands of Duneaves (which included the northern part of Drummond Hill) and Culdares in Fortingall to Black Duncan of Glenorchy in 1599. W.A Gillies 1938, 135. Monadh Craoibh or Moncrieff appears to be the original name of Drummond Hill, a beacon site at the east end of Loch Tay.
Glendochart: Acharn (NN5631).
Strathtay: Airntully (NO0935). Balquharn (NO0335). Camserney (NN8149). Cragganfearn (NO0053) at Tulliemet, the justice seat of Atholl. Dalmarnock (NN9945).
Glenfernal, Glenfernate, or Glenfearnach (NO0465) leads north to Loch Loch, the principal deer ambush in Atholl. It has standing stones, burnt mounds, Pictish stones, and other signs of prehistoric hunting. Watson identified the Fearnaid as ‘the river of the small fearnan’. W.J. Watson 1926, 445. The river is also given as Arnate or Ernate.
Madderty had as its patron S. Iphernan (= Ethernan or Ernan), developed by a clerical pun into G. aifrionn ‘Mass’.
Strathallan and the Ochils: Craighorn (NN8800). Earnieside (NO0105), a small hill farm. Frandy (NN9404) in Glendevon. Greenhorn Burn (NN8903). Rottearns (NN8407), on the south side of Strathallan.
South of the Ochils: Arndean (NS9998) at Muckhart. Arnot (NO2001) in the Lomond Hills. Arns (NS9190). Balquharn (NS8697). Cockairny (NT0999). Drunzie (NO1408). Fearns (NS8692). Killernie (NT0392). Lochornie (NT1094), presumably AG. loch ‘deer trap’.
Sidlaws: Arnbathie (NO1725) 5 km (3 m) from Old Scone, the Pictish capital. The site is marked by a fort, a prehistoric settlement (NO1726), and various cairns, one on Shien Hill (NO1726) (E. shine).
Trossachs: Frenich (NS4106), Loch Chon. Maol an Iaruirne (NS4599), Loch Ard.
Inverarnan (NN3118), at the top of Loch Lomond, is where the three counties of Perthshire, Argyll and Dunbarton meet. The boundary between Argyll and Dunbarton follows the Allt Arnan (NN3018) and the Lairig Arnan (NN2818) to the west.
Strathardle: Cnoc Eirionnaich (NO1157).
Glen Isla: Ferniehirst (NO2155), a high site.
Menteith.
A very remarkable collection of FRN names exists to the west of Stirling in and around the mosses of Menteith. Before the area was drained in the eighteenth century these mosses extended from Arnhall in the east to Killearn in the west. The evolution and survival of these names may be attributed to the persistence of traditional hunting in this area, while their varied forms point to a long period of divergent local use. The names Arnvicar, Arnprior and Arnclerich suggest that in the medieval period the word arn or earann was still in active use in this area to define a portion or division. The following names are now attached to farms or small villages around its edges: Arnbeg (NS6294), Arnclerich (NS6099), Arngibbon (NS6094), Arngomery (NS6394), Arnieve (NS7096), Arnprior (NS6094), Arntamie (N(N5600), Arnvicar (NS5898), Balfornought (NS8293) on Forth near Stirling, Balfron (NS5488), Ballochearn (NS5888) on the Endrick, Blochairn (NS5875), Daldorn (NN6603), Drumquharn (NS5187), Earn (NN6301), Earn (NN7001), Gartocharn (NS4987), Killearn (NS5285), Offerance (NS5496) to the west of Flanders Moss, Offers (NS7195) on river Forth, Offerance Easter and Wester (NS5797, 5795) to the east of Flanders Moss, Offrins of Gartur (NS5696) on the river Forth. Arnhall Castle (NS7698) to the east of Teith probably represents the neighbouring fearann. As may also be proposed for the area south of Maybole, Ayrshire and at Crossmichael in Galloway, early literacy appears to have preserved many old names.
Very few BRN names have been included but the following may be relevant.
Birnie and St Marny’s Well, Benholm (NO8069).
Baoirneach, a flat platform near the summit of Cairntoul, explained as Buidhearnach ‘yellowness’ but a BRN ‘beacon’ name.
Barnitus, the patron of Dreghorn parish, Ayrshire.
Bearnock (NH4130): recent Gaelic, small gap?
Bearranan (NF9176), a broad spur of Beinn Vreac.
Berniesdale, Skye.
Birnie, Moray (grid ref). It was the original seat of the bishops of Moray. Its saint was Brendan or Brennach who owned the Ronnel bell of Birnie (G. rainn?) St Ernan’s bell at Banchory, Deeside, was called Ronecht.
Branboth, an old parish in Glenlyon, Perthshire.
Brandanes, the men of Bute.
Brannie, The (NN1713), a hill-spur overlooking Loch Fyne which was almost certainly a beacon site controlling the loch.
Brathens, The (NO6798), a visible site on small hill above river Dee.
Brown: Glen Brown, Bridge of Brown, Burn of Brown (NJ1220). Between upper Strathavon and Abernethy parish.
Bruan (ND3139), a coastal site in Caithness.
Carn Bhrain (NH3870).
Dalabheairn (NH4951).
Dunbarnie parish on river Earn, Perthshire.
Kilbirnie, Ayrshire. St Birinus here.
The fearann in England.
English names include Findern (Derby), a settlement name cognate with the river Findhorn, Moray. G. fionn ‘white, bright (fire)’ + earrann ‘portion’. Also Furness in Cumbria. In Wales one finds Wern (±160) and Gwern (±70) but the OS Gazetteer shows only 40 names in FARN in the whole of England.
The following names were found in Northumberland: Fairnyflat (NT9653), Farne Islands (NU2336), Fernie (NT8233), Horncliffe (NT9249), Yarnspath Law (NT8813), Yearning Hall (NT8112). Further names from OS 1:50,000 sheet 87, covering Hexham in Northumberland: Farnbury (NY7245), Farneyshield (NY7948), Farneyside (NY7851), Farnley (NY9963), and Fernhill (NY9567). There were also a number of names which would not have been out of place in Aberdeenshire including Annat Walls (NY7245), Banno Crags (NY8372), Cairn End (NY7160), Click ‘em in (NZ0072), Fairhill (NY7245), Farglow (NY6868), Glendue (NY8865), Moralees (NZ0474), Redpeth (NY6963), and Tipalt (NY6968).
OS 1:50,000 map sheet 98 covering Wensleydale and Wharfdale, North Yorkshire, also produced five names, two of them attached to prominent hills: Arncliffe (NY9372), a village in Littondale, Fornah Gill (NY8469) (cf Fornought (NN9474), Balfornought (NS8293), Forneth (NO0945), Hern Gill (NY9975) and Whernside (NY7381, NX0277), hills of 736 m. and 605 m. respectively. There was a similar number of Gaelic names, such as Balshaw (NY6764), Braida Garth (NY7077), Cam (NY8282), Caphill Moss (NY7193), Cosh (NY8578), Crummack (NY7771), Firth Fell (NY9275), Gibbon Hill (NZ0196), Leck Fell (NY6678), Oughtershaw (NY8681), Ure river (NY7996).
As with any good theory further avenues for exploration open out. One is the existence of late pagan saints such as Ernan and Iphernan who were personified tribal beacons. Another is that Ernan is also found as Ethernan. Reconstructing the FRN form of this name the first element becomes Fetter as in Fetterangus, Fettercairn, Fetteresso, Fetternear and Fetterkill. Johnston (1934, 179) derives Fetter from G. fothir 'field, forest', which is appropriate as a hunting forest was the field of a beacon.
Main References:
W.M Alexander, Place-Names of Aberdeenshire, 1952.
J.B Johnston, Place-Names of Scotland, 1934.
W.C. Mackenzie, Scottish Place-Names, 1931.
W.J. Watson, Celtic Place-Names of Scotland, 1926.
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